Last Friday was spent back in Avignon exploring a couple of small but interesting museums and checking out the food markets Les Halles.
(This post was delayed in view of the tragic events in Paris on Friday night.)
Arriving by train, I head up Rue de la Republique and on reaching Place de l’Horloge, now with its rows of little wooden cabins in place ready for the Christmas market, I turn right and make my way to the Avignon food markets, Les Halles.
The exterior of Les Halles doesn’t do justice to the goods inside
It’s interesting to wander around the different stalls and survey the produce, but we may have been spoilt by the abundance of the Sunday markets in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue where we are staying.
A santon presides over the fromagerie
That gateau de fromage blanc looks intriguing
Anyone for tarte tatin?
I buy a tarte abricot to appease my taste buds after looking at all the wonderful food.
The Palais du Roure beckons
I walk along the old streets window shopping, and am attracted by the door of the Palais du Roure a mansion dating back prior to the 15th century. I discover that it is a museum hosting artifacts and furniture typical of Provence, so make a mental note to return after lunch.
Next to Église Saint-Agricol there appears to be a jovial function featuring good wines in full swing, but judging by the bouncer at the door I don’t think I would be welcome.
Instead seeing the beautiful sculpted facade of the 15th century church I pop inside. There are many art works but it is quite dark inside so hard to fully appreciate them. What is lovely is the coloured reflections being cast by the sun shining through the stained glass windows
Nearby I wander down a small arcade with lovely frescoes and find a small restaurant. The plat de jour is a good choice with a variety of delicately cooked fish in a lemony sauce with miniature vegetables and salad.
Inside the Palais du Roure
I return to the Palais du Roure and collect a small leaflet to guide me through the rooms of the mansion that are open to the public. It has a long history dating back to 1469, when a Florentine, Pierre Baroncelli, acquired the Armoried Tavern and two small houses near the livrée de Poitiers. He combined these sites to build his home which is now the Palais du Roure.
The building was remodeled later with characteristics of a 17th or 18th century hôtel. In the 19th century the poet Frédéric Mistral dubbed what was then the Hôtel Baroncelli-Javon, as the Palais du Roure (roure being a dedicated member of the félibrige, a movement to renew Provençal culture which met there).
In 1908 the family sold the hôtel. After having suffered considerable damage, it was finally saved in 1918 by Jeanne de Flandreysy, former journalist for Le Figaro, great admirer and friend of Mistral and passionate about Provençal culture. An energetic and determined woman, she devoted herself to the restoration of the Palais du Roure to its former glory. Once the restoration work was complete she created a center of Mediterranean culture.
The entrance door that grabbed my attention on my previous visit to Avignon and again today, features impressive interweaving branches surrounding a helmet-topped coat of arms that is supported by two figures. This decorative entrance is in contrast with the building’s general stark but elegant appearance. There are four core buildings with sculpted windows around an interior court.
A few of the 150 bell collection of Jeanne de Flandreysy
Among its treasures is a wonderful collection of 18th and 19th century Provençal furniture, a 15th century painted ceiling, rare paintings, murals from the 18th century, and a gallery devoted to the Belgian Symbolist painter Henry de Groux who spent time there.
There is an entire floor devoted to Provençal culture including 18th to 20th century santon figurines and mangers, traditional costumes, regional art, and traditional tools. There is also the press on which were printed the first edition of Frédéric Mistral’s chef-d’œuvre Mirèio and the Provençal newspaper L’Aïoli created in the Palais du Roure.
As I tour the house I come across a class of school children sitting on the floor of the dining room, happily working on a project under their teachers’ supervision. I wonder if it is about Provençal culture.
The Musée Angladon
Musée Angladon
Now on to see the Musée Angladon, in the lovely 18th century mansion Hôtel de Massilian bought in 1977 by two Avignon painters Jean Angladon-Dubrujeaud and his wife Paulette Martin to display their art collections. They donated their family inheritance and home to the public, the inheritance coming from the Parisian couturier Jacques Doucet, a well known collector and patron of the arts. The couple were keen for the Musée to retain the appearance of a home as much as possible.
The Hôtel de Massilian, in the centre of Avignon not far from the tourist office, is named after the family that occupied it in the 18th century and retains a beautiful staircase and discrete elements of its original decoration in the rooms on the first floor.
Amongst the personal collection are several paintings by Cézanne, Degas, Manet, Picasso and Mondigliani and a painting by Van Gogh that is the only one of his works remaining in Provence.
There is also some wonderful 18th century furniture, a collection of porcelain in the Chinese salon, a library and the studio where the former owners’ own works are displayed.
The major artworks are displayed on the first floor
It is enjoyable to see art in the setting of old homes, and a smaller collection makes it easier to appreciate the individual works of art.
There are many more such museums in Avignon in fine old houses whose collections feature the personal taste of their former owners. It is well worth going off the beaten tourist track to discover them.
On the way back to the train station I stroll through the lovely garden square off cours Jean-Jaurès.
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