Yesterday we combined Roman and medieval marvels with modern day indulgence – visiting Orange and Vaison-la-Romaine, driving through stunning vineyards and replenishing at a cute and entertaining tea room.
Arriving first in Orange in the heart of the Rhone Valley, we spent a very informative and enjoyable hour and a half on an audio guided tour of the Roman Theatre Antique d’Orange.
Theatre Antique d’Orange already decked out in Christmas lights
An introductory film gives a good backdrop before we start exploring the site with the audio guide gradually piecing together the history of the theatre and its uses over time up to the modern day.
Built in the first century BC it was an important performing arts site for the Romans, but also served as an avenue to inspire loyalty and fan-like support from the population for the emperor at the time. Performances were free for the public and extra ones were staged at times when the emperor needed to curry favour to increase his popularity, at one time exceeding 100 per year. I am sure I could become a fan of any government if they gave me free tickets to the West End or the Sydney Opera House 100 days of the year!
We marvel at the site’s construction and the uniqueness of its Roman stage wall to be still largely in tact. The stage’s wooden flooring, under which the machinery was kept, could be raised above the orchestra pit. There were corridors behind the wall through which the actors and workers could pass.
A UNESCO World Heritage site, the impressive stage wall of the theatre is incredibly well-preserved. In its heyday the semi circular seating area, the cavea, could hold as many as 10,000 spectators. Three separate sections seated the theatre-goers according to their social rank. We wind our way through the different levels of seating and vantage points as our audio guide gives us the low down. Taking time to sit down it is easy to imagine the performances that would have taken place.
The theatre has certainly been through the mill over the centuries. It was closed in 391 AD deemed as a pagan pastime when Christianity came into power, later on was ransacked and pillaged, and it was used as a defensive post in the Middle Ages. During the 16th century wars of religion it was used as a refuge and we were surprised to hear how dwellings were built inside its parameters forming a self contained village. In the 18th century it was used as a prison, but finally Napoleon ordered the dwellings to be taken down and the theatre restored. Four tiers of seating were built and performances began again.
It has amazing acoustics, lending it to theatre and opera. After 1845 it became a famous venue for music and all the great opera singers have sung there. It has been the setting for the annual July opera festival Les Choregies d’Orange for around 150 years and has also been the stage for rock concerts.
There is a temple next to the Theatre where the Romans would go to worship the emperor of the time
Exploring vivacious Vaison-la-Romaine
Our appetites whetted, we travel on to Vaison-la-Romaine which has a couple of large Roman ruin sites, the remains of the Gallo-Roman city from the first to third centuries BC.
On our way we drive through seemingly endless wine country of the Cotes du Rhone – hectare after hectare of autumn leaved vines and impressive stone wine caves set against the irregular peaks of the Dentelles de Montmirail.
The town, which lies at the foot of Mont Ventoux, is a blend of Roman and medieval. In its day Vaison-la-Romaine was one of the wealthiest cities in Roman Provence.
The two main Roman sites are just a short distance from where we park the car. At La Villasse a paved raised street runs straight through a central district with luxurious houses, shops, baths, gardens, and fountains. At Puymin, there is the remains of the Roman theatre among other buildings.
There is also a Roman bridge built in the first century BC over the Ouvèze River, linking the lower part of the city to the upper medieval part of town. We head up the hillside as the regular Tuesday market is closing down to explore the medieval area and to hopefully find some lunch.
Near the top of the road we find Thé Chez Toi, a tiny cafe in the medieval town that has more than 30 types of tea, and is decked out with teapots and tea things, some of which is for sale. But the attraction here is the couple who run it. The personable Dutchman Daan who is mine host, raconteur, barista and sometimes entertains with his guitar and a song. His talented partner Emilie is the chef whisking up some simple but tasty dishes from fresh salads and savory tarts to delicious fruit pies and cakes.
If you pass by Thé Chez Toi Daan may treat you to a tune
Clockwise – pear tart, tomato tart and clementine pie
They tell us of their plans for their newly set up business, their broken down campervan that they need to replace so they can continue their love of travelling, and how they met in Melbourne when they were both on working holidays to Australia.
We finally have to leave to continue our walk around the old town where we admire the beautiful houses, courtyards, fountains and the 12th century chateau.
Driving home home again along majestic tree lined roads, past vineyards, olive trees and through small picturesque towns I am struck again by the beauty and many colours of the landscape and the soft glow cast by the setting sun.
Each day in Provence somehow seems to surpass the previous.
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